Follow the Lederhosen

We finally made it to Oktoberfest 2010! It was the very last day and this year was the 200^th anniversary, so it was pretty special. Well, honestly I don’t know if it was any better than the last 200, but it was special just the same. Getting to the festival was a bit of a challenge, starting with trying to find a locker at the Munich train station for our luggage. EVERY single locker was in use and there were tons of people waiting like vultures for someone to empty their locker. I went to find a toilet and was approached by a couple of people asking if I was going to my locker. And you basically had to become one of those vultures to get a locker. So Randy did that while I found a toilet (that I had to pay 80 cents to use by the way).  After about 10 minutes of waiting patiently (or stalking, whatever you want to call it) someone was kind enough to give Randy their locker.  Luggage stowed, check.

Next task, actually find the Oktoberfest grounds. We went to the information office and got some simple directions (it is very close to the train station) but really all we needed to do was follow the lederhosen. The Germans are very traditional in Bavaria (the region Munich is in). I would say at least 70% of all in attendance were wearing the traditional lederhosen (leather pants) and dirndl’s (the dress women wear).

I was very surprised when we walked to the festival grounds. I guess I was expecting something more like the renaissance fair with a field full of tents for beer drinking and food. But it was more like the L.A, or O.C. fairs. The main difference (and most important), instead of exhibit halls for vendors or competitions they have beer halls (or tents they were called). I counted 4 large halls; each decorated differently for the occasion and filled with nothing but tables. People were crammed along benches, one table behind the next with only a narrow walkway between every 2 rows or so. There was a large polka band in the center of each hall, playing traditional German songs for the drunk patrons to sing along to while swinging their steins in the air. No dancing was allowed though. The rules at Oktoberfest are pretty strict. If you want a beer, you must be seated in a sanctioned beer hall/restaurant. If you want a seat in a beer hall then you need to make a reservation in advance or arrive early (8 or 9am) and grab a seat that has no reservation. Making a reservation isn’t hard. I’m told it’s only the price of 2 liter beers. That way, if you don’t show up they don’t care. The cost of a liter this year was €8.90 (for future reference).  If you don’t have a reservation, you can ask a waitress to seat you when a spot becomes vacant, but good luck. Germans really love beer and polka music, which are both only available in the halls. You can, of course, walk through the halls whenever you like. You can walk through and enjoy the scene of laughing drunk people clinking beer steins, having all the fun for you. But while you are staring at them like a person on a diet stares at cake, watch out for the wait staff. Waiters and waitress’ carry giant trays of plates and 7+ steins at a time, and they are always in a rush so they will push you out of the way without a word.

We tried to meet up with some fellow couch surfers who grabbed a table earlier that morning, but the universe seemed to keep working against us (like when we tried to get to Oktoberfest the first time). We ended up getting a spot on a bench at a small restaurant next to a beer hall. They weren’t playing any polka music, which is why I think we were able to get a table. There we met a nice kid from Ukraine who dreams of coming to the U.S. (FYI, the way they depict Russian accents in movies is spot on. “…this is Russian space station..” if you know the reference then you know what I’m talking about). Anyway, we also met some nice Bavarians who were happy to help us get service and loved joking around with us. The main lesson we learned at this restaurant was that menus don’t translate. If there is an English menu and you think it’s the exact same as the native menu, so you read the descriptions in English then order off the native menu you are not likely to get what you thought you asked for. Just order off the English menu.

Overall it was a good time. I will definitely do things better next time I come (like dress in a dirndl and come early) now that I know what to expect. And trust me, there will definitely be a next time. Anyone want to join?

Fun Fact: I was told (but have no confirmation) that the way you wear the knot of your dirndl apron signifies your marital status.  Knot in the back = widow ; Knot on either side = married ; knot in the middle front = virgin.